Blood, Love and Fizz

Our mega bus screeched to a halt. The sun sank below the crowded city buildings and the sky darkened quickly. We stepped into a melee of sweaty Cambodian taxi/tuk-tuk/cyclo drivers; some of them holding signs with names, most of them asking questions. “Where you go?” “Where you stay?” “You need ride?” “Marijuana?” “Opium?” “You need bang-bang?”

Phnom Penh is surprisingly intense. It feels like New York City in the 80’s, when you still hid your money in your sock; when you and didn’t walk alone at night. There are beggars everywhere, but not the bearded veteran-type or the toothless insane-type. These are quick-witted five-year-olds. These are beautiful kids, orphaned, many of them hired out as beggars by “child-beggar pimps” who take all of what you give them. Here’s a sample conversation while walking down the sidewalk to dinner:

Kid (to Dan): “Hello sir! Good evening!”
Dan: “Hi!”
Kid: “Where are you from?”
Dan, remembering that these kids know every capital of the American states and most of the names of the presidential cabinet members: “Nowhere.”
Kid: “Where is nowhere?”
Dan: (Silent)
Kid: “What is the capital of nowhere?”
Dan: (Starting to smile and shake his head)
Kid: “Don’t you even know the capital of where you’re from!? Well, do you want to buy a guide book? Only three dollars!?”
Dan: “No thanks, man.”
Kid: “Okay, for you, Mister Nowhere, two dollars!”

We came to Phnom Penh for a couple of reasons, one being so we wouldn’t be another pair of lame tourists who just fly into Angkor and back without even a glimpse at the capitol city, and two, so we could see two of the monuments dedicated to the victims of Cambodia’s bloody civil war: S-21, the school-house turned torture-prison; and the killing fields, one of many mass graves. Also, Dan had shaved his head into a Mohawk and wanted to shoot a rocket launcher; which sadly, did not happen.

We tried to be tourists a little bit by going to the Royal Palace and seeing the silver pagoda, but it was a major disappointment. Also, the supposedly great markets pretty much just sold the same cheap trinkets as everywhere else: boring “native” style silver bracelets, “authentic” carved wooden elephants of all sizes and T-Shirts that say “Same Same But Different”, a favorite phrase of Southeast Asian locals and tourists. A fellow Kiwi traveler used the phrase perfectly in this conversation:

Sebastian: “I’m from New Zealand.”
Local guy: “Where?”
Sebastian: “New Zealand? Near Australia?”
Local guy: “You from Australia?”
Sebastian: “No. New Zealand.”
Local guy: “New Zealand same Australia?”
Sebastian: “Yes, I guess New Zealand is the same as Australia. Same same. But different.”

Now onto the depressing stuff. In the mid 70’s, the entire city of Phnom Penh was evacuated by the Khmer Rouge , a genocidal regime led by the infamous mass-murderer, Pol Pot. The Khmer Rouge attempted a “forced agrarian society” wherein they tried to erase all modernization in Cambodia and force the entire population back into the rice fields. Their goal was “Year Zero,” a culture and a people with no link to the past and no understanding of the world other than their place as rice farmers. All doctors, lawyers, scholars and anyone smart enough to realize how insane the Khmer Rouge was were immediately executed. When, after only four years in power, the Khmer Rouge was defeated by the Vietnamese, the world discovered that one third of all sweet, talkative Cambodians had been murdered.

S-21 was a school house. A remarkable number of the Khmer Rouge soldiers were children and teenagers, making it ironic that they chose a three-story school house for one of their most brutal interrogation chambers. S-21 was designed to force the confessions of “traitors”, Khmer Rouge soldiers and family members who were suspected of betraying the regime. Tourists now stroll through the surprisingly beautiful grounds, frowning into tiled classrooms, the walls of which have witnessed the full gamut of humanity, from simple arithmetic to torture with electrical wires. In its four years of function (1975-9), S-21 housed 17,000 prisoners, of which there were 12 survivors. Every inmate was photographed and their biography written, much of which is fascinatingly on display throughout the school.

We spaced our sobering genocide tours over two days, so the following day was dedicated to the Killing Fields. Upon entering the grounds, a sign asks that you take at least five seconds of silence before proceeding. Once each S-21 inmate confessed to betraying the regime (many times falsely confessed because of the extreme torture), they were driven a few kilometers out of town to a dusty plot of open land and beaten to death with iron bars, pickaxes and machetes. Bullets were too pricey for these simple executions. Thousands of skeletons have been unearthed from dozens of ditches in this few-acre property. A square monument has been built to house the skulls. You can hear kids singing and laughing from a nearby school. You can wander around.

On the way back into town, our tuk-tuk driver asked Dan if he wanted to shoot an AK-47. We had read about a shooting range where tourists can fire AK’s, M60’s, Rocket Launchers, or even toss live Chinese hand grenades . Kim, still wiping tears from her eyes from the Killing Fields, was not at all in the mood for firearms. We told the driver “we’d check it out.” Ten minutes later we drove through a solid metal gate into a cement compound. A few blonde-haired tourists were gaping at a long wall of machine guns. A few Cambodians were sitting on a patch of blanket, sorting bullets. Dan looked at Kim. Kim said: “I don’t want any part of this. But you can do whatever you want.” A U-turn came shortly thereafter.

Phnom Penh is not without its greatness! There are world-class restaurants, fashionable shops and a terrific French style about its open, breezy buildings. It has style! It has character! There are book shops that sell bestsellers and classics, all entirely photocopied, for half price. We sucked down some of the freshest, most delicious drinks in the world: tangerine fizz for Kim and tamarind fizz for Dan, at a restaurant called Fizz. We ate overpriced tapas at Friends because all proceeds from the restaurant and adjacent shop go directly to helping educate street kids. We gambled in the basement of our hotel. We drank complimentary beverages.

Despite the culinary attempts of Laos and Cambodia, these cultures cannot satiate Kim’s discerning palate. She is beginning to wither without brown rice, tasty noodle soups or "properly" flavored curry. Each day she grows a bit more fond of Thailand. Each day she wistfully recounts the exact dishes that she will order from each of her favorite eateries. It is for this simple reason — good food — that we point our adventure back toward the sizzling sweetness of Chiang Mai.

Love
Dan&Kim

Bob Lewis posted on 2008-02-28 at 3:54 pm

This is the first blog that I've ever read... wonderful... got tuned into it, Dan, by your dad (Eric) with whom I went to Rainstar (massage school). (Eric's now my massage therapist.) Fascinating report of Pol Pot's savagery. Ugh. But, enjoyed much more reading of wonderful Tai food and massage lessons, Kim. Hope to meet you two someday in Phoenix/Tempe. Bob Lewis

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Neil and Jo (again!) posted on 2008-02-23 at 7:19 am

We'll get you the details so you can purchase your suit in BK as soon as we find them! x

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Jo and Neil posted on 2008-02-23 at 6:45 am

hello you beautiful two! Ankor Wot sunset was out of this world, thanks for the recommendation of the Tuk-tuk, by far the most angelic way to enjoy the setting. Your site is wonderful-Neil's even more keen now to have you help him with his web. Cooking and meeting you guys was a blast, keep in touch and we'll be sure to keep up to date with your trip, it'll help us get over the realities of home! tones of love, No and Jiel xxx PS. We've just purchased 'In to the Wild'. PPS. Dan get those swimming arms back on...we're going to swim the English Channel as soon as you get over to Britain, be prepared!

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aor posted on 2008-02-17 at 5:27 am

The conversation so funny. hahaha I like it. Although the food was not so good,kids over there can make you both smile*-* I think it's fare enough ^^

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Katy & Kev posted on 2008-02-16 at 8:49 pm

Hi guys - love your latest blog. We're back now in rainy cold yorkshire and it's very strange, a little overwhelming. Great to see family and friends but we're a little sad that it's all over. Let's hope the memories remain. Hope to see you in Phoenix some day. Enjoy the rest of your journey. And try not to get ill in Chiang Mai !!!!!! xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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Dan's Dad posted on 2008-02-14 at 12:39 pm

After reading about the torture and killing fields I'v become so depressed that I forgot what I was going to say. Oh yeah, Happy Valentine's Day! I really can't wait for you two to come home. Kim, are you still studying or practicing Thai massage? All is well here. I miss you both.

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Nash! posted on 2008-02-13 at 1:53 pm

For some reason whenever I read about the Khmer Rouge the song "Killing Fields" by Echo and the Bunny Men pops in my head and I am distracted by thoughts of time travel in universes that will collapse on themselves. And giant bunnies named Frank. Alas. I miss you kids.

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David posted on 2008-02-13 at 8:26 am

I've always heard that the killing fields were extremely depressing and tough to swallow while walking around there...a very sobering and ironic life experience I'm sure for you both. The stories of the refugees that managed to survive and escape is truly amazing as well. Enjoy Chiang Mai!

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Mom posted on 2008-02-11 at 5:59 pm

Wow- that was sad. And I know that by now you are in Chiang Mai with the conforts of a clean bed and good food. Enjoy and be safe. With love hugs and kisses xoxoxoxo

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katerina posted on 2008-02-09 at 3:58 pm

whoa ~ that is heavy. makes my heart heavy and achy and i would've been wiping the tears along with kim......and to change the subject now to i LOVE the fact that you're leaving because of FOOD! i completely understand! and yes, nona and poppi bring up a great point ~ the culture shock of returning "home"....oooh, in my experience it is REALLY hard...please prepare yourselves, maybe some bach flower walnut and star of bethlehem...;)

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nona and poppi posted on 2008-02-09 at 2:45 pm

It will be interesting to see how you guys adjust to our culture after being so far away for so long a time.Keep us posted. love and kisses ..

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Auntie Wendy posted on 2008-02-08 at 10:58 pm

Okay, no more depressing stuff! It is history and something most of us here in America have no clue about. Really shakes you to reality when you experience 1st hand. The beggar children remind me those in Tijuana, Mexico in the 70's. I'll be glad when you are back in Thailand too! I had greasy Thai today. More about that when you return. Love to you both!!! Kisses and Hugs!

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Anna posted on 2008-02-08 at 2:09 pm

Guys, thank you for a sobering piece of history. brings tears to my eyes just reading it...can only imagine what it's like seeing it, being there... as always, love the pictures and the stories. ENJOY YOUR THAI FOOD! I hope it's the same same, but you know...better after the longing and the wait!!

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jill winson posted on 2008-02-08 at 1:16 pm

just love following this amazing adventure of a lifetime. glad your mom turned me onto the website. this last one sounds like a real doozy! hard i am sure at times to swallow. will keep following. keep well.

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